You can see how legit my review is from these paltry pictures...I kindly uploaded one with bad flash action going on and one blurry, dark one sans flash so you can get 2 different views.
A couple of days ago, I met a few friends to eat at Aquavit Cafe before going to see The Reader (so good!) at the Paris Theatre in midtown. This meal was highly anticipated; I've heard and read so much about the food and its executive chef and co-ower, Marcus Samuelsson.
I listened to the menu and ordered the "Chef's Recommendation:" the SMÖRGÅSBORD, an assortment of Swedish bites.
In the 2nd (darker) picture, from the bottom row left to right, 2nd row left to right, and 3rd row left to right: Herring with curry, apple, and chives; Herring with vodka, lime, salmon roe, and dill; Pickled herring with horseradish and black pepper, Salmon tartar, Smoked salmon, Gravlax, Swedish meatball, Pâté, and Shrimp salad. To the left of that plate I had a beautiful tiny oyster on the half shell, some Västerbotten cheese, and a boiled fingerling potato.
Visually arresting for sure. I'm biting my lip now, trying to describe how I felt about this meal. Please note that this was my very first sampling of herring. I must start by saying that this was exotic to me so that made me happy. I truly enjoy trying new foods. Truth be told, however, I didn't enjoy the herring. I tried at least 2 small bites of each type, but none pleased my palate. I don't know if it was more the taste or the texture, or both. That said, I think herring may be an acquired taste, or something one grows up eating and then craves (as my friends tell me). I am determined to try it again.
The row of salmon bites were tasty, just a bit much for my stomach that night -- it was a frigid evening and I'd just come from a heavenly massage at Metamorphosis Spa (ask for Shea; she's amaaaazing) so I think my tummy was prepped for warm, mushy comfort food and I shocked it with the SMÖRGÅSBORD. The third row was more than pleasurable: thank goodness for the satisfying meatball, unctuous pâté, and tasty shrimp salad with dill. As I mentioned earlier, this is not a valid review; I only dined at the restaurant once and tried just this plate. And I still vow to like herring someday.
Oh, I did try something else...
Jansson’s Temptation. Terrible photo, but I think you can grasp how creamy and melty this was. Now I do feel as though I can credibly review Jannson's Temptation since I have had it twice now. The first time was at Smörgås, where I had a remarkably tasty brunch a few blustery Sundays ago. This lovely side dish came alongside my baked eggs with chanterelle mushrooms, tomatoes, and onions. When I saw it on the menu there, I thought oh, that's a cute name for a dish the chef made up. I didn't realize until I saw it on the menu at Aquavit that it is an actual dish, which according to Wikipedia is a Swedish casserole made of potatoes, onion, pickled sprats (similar to anchovies), and cream. Wait, no cheese? This stuff has to have cheese in it; it's so gooey and melty...well, I looked up a few recipes -- no cheese! I'm shocked. I guess it just contains loads of cream. In any case, it's heavenly. Here's a recipe for those who can't make it out to Smörgås or Aquavit.
Jansson's Frestelse (Jansson's Temptation), adapted from a reader-submitted recipe on Epicurious
5 to 6 potatoes, thinly sliced using a mandolin or grater (you want thin matchstick-like strips)
2 medium onions, sliced
20 Swedish anchovy fillets (usually in tins, in oil)
2 or 3 Tbsp. butter
1 1/4 cups heavy whipping cream
Let potato strips soak in water for a few hours to remove some of the starch. Dry well. Saute onions in half the butter. Butter an 8 x 11 1/2 baking dish. Layer 1/3 of potatoes in the dish, and top with 1/2 of the onions and 1/2 of the anchovies. Repeat layer, and cover with remaining 1/3 of potatoes. Dot with remaining butter, and about 2/3 the cream. Cover with foil and bake at 400°F for 30 minutes. Remove foil, sprinkle with remaining cream, and bake another 20 or 30 minutes until potatoes are tender and golden brown. Sink in.
